Adventures during April 30th, 2006

Sunday, April 30, 2006

6:00 am: Three hours sleep isn't quite enough sleep to start the season off but I'll take it. The MUA was jam packed and we wanted to be the first on Shockley's (5.6). This was my third time on the famous ceiling but a first for Sandy, as we've had bad weather every other time she made it to the Gunks. The first two pitches are routine and uneventful. By the time we made it to the GT ledge, other climbers were making their way to the cliff. On their way to Middle Earth (5.5), Kim and Kurt actually saw us from the ground (or heard us) and yelled up to us. The crux ceiling goes smoothly for me as I found an even better right-hand under cling /side pull above the lip of the roof. Sandy once again proved that no two people climb the ceiling the same way. She made it up with little problem and I snapped a handful of decent pictures from the optional hanging belay above. Now the final roof caused some problems because I placed a bomber, passive brown tricam in the vertical crack. Sandy banged up her hands trying to get it out and we eventually just gave us so we get moving with on climb. The route is so popular that I'm sure someone claimed the tricam that day. 11:30 am: To continue our day of straightforward red points, we climb the Gunk's best kept secret: Wrist (5.6). This was a favorite of mine last season and was just as good the second time. After the first pitch, Sandy says "This isn't 5.6, it's easier." "Just wait and see." I reply. After the stemming required for the second pitch's crux, Sandy claims "this is the best climb at the Gunks." And we didn't even get to the money pitch yet. The third pitch has the exciting, overhung traverse out under a roof. This wasn't any easier the second time around. Just before I started the traverse, Sandy doesn't help my mental game: "This is scary". "Yeah, no shit." I placed two #2 C4s as far out on the traverse as I could get them and then just started cranking like an idiot with no technique whatsoever. I eventually belly flopped over the last part of the traverse, and enjoyed the easier climbing above. Sandy isn't one to belly flop, so she tries to cut the traverse short some other, harder way. This results in a few hangs on the rope. She eventually finished the traverse the right way which makes things easy (or so I'm told). 3:30 pm: Sandy needed to be at the Newark Airport for her 8:00pm flight, so we didn't have enough time for another climb. She just practiced some gear placement and then we made a quick detour at Rock and Snow before we left town.